Moss stitch dots Knitting Stitches

Moss stitch dots


Work with a multiple of 6 stitches, plus 5.
For sample, cast on 29 stithces.
Rows 1 and 3: K 4, * p 1, k 1, p 1, k 3 * repeat from* to *, ending last repeat with k4.
Rows 2 and 4: p 5, * k 1, p 5* repeat from * to *.
Rows 5 and 11: Knit.
Rows 6 and 12: Purl.
Rows 7 and 9: K 1, * p 1. k 1. p1, k 3* repeat from * to *, ending with (p 1. k 1) twice.
Rows 8 and 10: p2, * k 1. p 5* repeat from * to * ending with k 1, p 2.
Repeat Rows 1 through 12 for pattern, do 3 repeats of pattern for sample.


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Potpourri Butterfly Shawl

Potpourri Butterfly Shawl
Designed by Nina Banks

Materials:
2 cones #178 Potpourri- Double Worsted Weight;
1 pair size 13 Knitting needles;
2 markers
Gauge:
Cast on 64 Stitches

DIRECTIONS:
Row 1: K 5, place marker, knit 54, place marker, k 5.


Rows 2 to 8: Knit each row. (The five stitches before and after each marker are
the borders, you will always knit these five stitches).

Now Start Pattern.

Notes: Slip stitches purl-wise, also do not draw them up tight.
Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9: Knit 5, Purl 54, Knit 5.

Row 2,4, 6, 8: Knit 7, * yarn forward (yf), slip 5, Yarn back (yb), Knit 5, repeat from *, ending yf, slip 5, yb, knit 12.
Row 10: Knit 9, * on the next stitch, which is the middle of the 5 slipped stitches, pickup the four strands with left index finger, and place on right needle, knit the next stitch, now pass the four strands over the stitch just knitted, knit 9, repeat from * across, end knit 9.

Row 11, 13, 15,17,19: Knit 5, Purl 54, knit 5.

Row 12, 14, 16, 18: Knit 12, *YF, Slip 5,YB, Knit 5, repeat from *, ending yf, slip 5, knit 7.
Row 20: Knit 14, * pick up stitches as before, and knit with the middle stitch, knit 9, repeat from * across row, ending knit 9.

Repeat these 20 rows for pattern 12 times, then repeat rows 1-10 once. Repeat row 1

Knit all stitches for 8 rows, bind off. Add fringe if desired.
Every effort has been made to assure that the information is accurate. We cannot be responsible for typographical error, human error, or individual variations in workmanship. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from Pisgah Yarn & Dyeing Co., Inc. http://www.peaches-creme.com/

This pattern is copyrighted, and may not be used on any media, including websites, lists, newsletters, nor sold, recopied or reformatted. It is for your personal use only.

Ecru Pillow

Ecru Pillow
Designed by N. Banks
Materials:
1 Cone #4 Ecru - Double Worsted Weight,
1 16" Pillow form, N Crochet hook






Stitches Used:
Slip Stitch= sls,

Single Crochet=SC
Insert hook in stitch, yo and draw through, yo and draw through both lps on hook.

Half Double Crochet = hdc Yo,
 insert hook in stitch, yo, draw through, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Double Crochet= dc Yo,
insert hook in stitch, yo, draw through, yo, draw through 2 lps, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook.

Front Post Stitch =fps
working in front row just make, yo, inset hook from front to back and front again around the vertical post of stitch below, yo (three loops on hook) and draw thread through two loops on hook, yo, draw through two loops on hook. One loop remains. Fps completed.

Back Post Stitch = bps
working in back of row just make, yo, insert hook from back to front and to back again around the vertical post of stitch below, yo (three loops on hook) and draw thread through two loops on hook, yo, draw through two loops on hook. One loop remains. Bps completed.

Bobbles =
Work 5 dc in same place, leaving the last loop of each dc on hook, (you should have 5 loops on hook), yo, draw through all the loops on the hook, ch 1. Puff Stitch = yo, insert the hook in next SC, yo, and draw up a loop, (three loops on the hook), repeat this step twice more, inserting the hook into the same stitch each time, (7 loops on hook), yo, and draw through all the loops on the hook, ch 1.

Slip Stitch = sls, Same place = s/p, Around = ard.

DIRECTIONS:
Rd 1: ch 34, 1 dc in 3 ch from hook and in each ch across chain, work 3 dc in last chain, now working on other side of beginning chain, 1 dc in each chain across, work 3 dc in last chain. Join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 2: *FPS ard next dc, 1 BPS ard next dc, repeat from * around, join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 3: * 1 FPS ard FPS of row below, 1 BPS ard BPS of row below, repeat from * around, join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 4: Repeat round 3, join with sls, ch 1.

Rd 5 & 6: 1 sc in s/p, sc ard, join with sls, ch 1.

Rd 7: SC in s/p * 1 sc in next 3 sc, sc in sc 2 rows below, skip 1 sc, repeat from * ard, end sc in joining chain 2 rows below, join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 8: Work 4 more dc in s/p, leaving the last loop of each dc on hook ( you should have 5 loops on hook), yo, draw through all the loops on the hook, ch 1. (Bobble Made) * 1 dc in next stitch, bobble in next stitch, repeat from * ard, join sls, ch 2.

Rd 9: hdc in s/p, * FPS ard next dc, hdc in top of Bobble, repeat from * ard, join with sls to beginning ch 2. Ch 2.

Rd 10: Working in loops below back loop, hdc in s/p, hdc ard, join with sls, ch 2.

Rd 11, 12, 13: Repeat round 10, after round 13, ch 3.

Rd 14: FPS ard each hdc, join with sls, to first post, ch 3.

Rd 15 & 16: FPS ard each FPS, join with sls to first post, ch 3. Afrer rd 16, ch 1.

Rd 17 & 18: sc ard, join with sls, ch 1.

Rd 19: Sc in s/p * 1 sc in next 3 sc, sc in sc 2 rows below, skip 1 sc, repeat from * ard, end sc in joining ch. 2 rows below, join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 20: 1 dc in s/p, 1 dc in each sc ard, join with sls to top first dc, ch 3.

Rd 21: 1 BPS ard each dc, repeat ard, join with sls to first BPS, ch 3.

Rd 22 & 23: Repeat round 21, ch 3.

Rd 24: Yo, insert hook in s/p, draw up a loop, (three loops on the hook), repeat this step twice more, inserting the hook into the s/p each time (7 loops on hook) yo, and draw through all the hoops on the hook, ch 1, * insert the hook in next stitch, yo and draw up a loop, (three loops on the hook), repeat this step twice more, inserting hook in the same stitch each time, ( 7 loops on hook), yo, and draw through all the loops on the hook, (Puff stitch made) ch 1, * repeat from * to * ard. Join with slip stitch to top of first puff stitch, ch 1.

Rd 25: Sc in s/p, sc in top of each Puff stitch ard, join with s/s. Ch 1.

Rd 26: Repeat round 5

Rd 27: Sc in s/p * 1 Sc in next 3 Sc, Sc in ch 1 of puff stitch 2 rows below, skip 1 sc, repeat from * ard, end sc in joining chain 2 rows below, join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 28: 1 dc in s/p, 1 dc in each sc ard, join with sls, ch 3.

Rd 29: Repeat round 2

Rd 30: Repeat round 3, ch 1.

Rd 31: Sc in s/p, sc ard. Put pillow form into case and sew closed, fasten off yarn, weave in the ends.

Every effort has been made to assure that the information is accurate. We cannot be responsible for typographical error, human error, or individual variations in workmanship. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from Elmore Pisgah.

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Baby Bib

Baby Bib
By N. L. Banks
Materials
Peaches & Crème Cotton Yarn By Elmore-Pisgah, Inc.

1 ball #184 Shades of Spring
1 ball #1 White (this is enough yarn to make several bibs)
1 G Hook
Stitches Used:
Slip Stitch = Sl St
Single Crochet = sc
Half Double Crochet = hdc
Double Crochet = dc
Directions:
Row 1 ch 20, 1 hdc in second ch form hook and in each ch across, ch 3, turn.

Row 2 working in back loop, work a hdc in each hdc across row, ch 3, turn,

Rows 3 & 4 repeat row 2

Row 5 Still working in back loops, 1 hdc in first 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next, work to last 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in last 3 hdc, ch 3, turn.

Rows 6 & 7 repeat row 2

Row 8 repeat row 5, increasing 3 stitches evenly.

Row 9 repeat row 2

Row 10 repeat row 5, increasing 4 stitches evenly .

Row 11 repeat row 2, fasten off.

Row 12 with white, attach to top at corner, with straight edge on your right, sc around evenly down side, place 2 sc in corner, sc across bottom edge, place 2 sc in corner, and sc up opposite side, place 2 sc in top corner. Now working across top of bib, (sc across first 3 stitches, sc two stitches together, 2 times, sc in last 2 stitches, join with s1 st.

Row 13 ch 1, sk 1 sc, *5 dc in next sc, sk 1 sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * around, end sl st in last sc at top right side of bib, do not crochet across top, do not fasten off.
Ties chain 45, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each chain across row, sl st across top of bib, chain 45, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each chain across row, join with sl st to first sc of row 13, fasten off.

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This pattern is copyrighted, and may not be used on any media, including websites, lists, newsletters, nor sold, recopied or reformatted. It is for your personal use only.

Crochet Stitches crossed over V stitch

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 Sc in each ch across, ch 3, turn.
Row 2: Skip 2 sc, * 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, pass hook in front of last 3 dc, yo, and insert in skipped sc before dc group, draw up a loop and complete the single crochet, skip 1 sc, repeat from * across, end 1 dc in last sc, ch 1, turn.
Rows3: 1 Sc in each St across, end 1 sc in top of ch 3. Ch 3, turn.
Repeat row's 2 and 3

Looking at the pictures, start at the bottom and work up, lol,

Mt Vernon Afghan

An At My House Pattern

Mount Vernon Afghan

Columbia Knitting Manual Vol. 109 Pattern No. 970
Size–About 54 x 72 inches

The one Afghan made more than any other is the original old Mount Vernon. The crocheted squares may be joined together diagonally as illustrated, or straight, if preferred. It is a true classic.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Columbia Knitting Worsted (4 ounce skein) 15 Skeins–Assorted Colors
8 Skeins–Black
–OR– Columbia Afghan Germantown (2 ounce skein)
27 Skeins–Assorted Colors
14 Skeins–Black
1 Steel Crochet Hook Size 2

Gauge: 3 Sts. to inch. (Finished Square measures about 4 inches.)

Note: you can use 4 ply worsted weight yarn and a G hook, but the Afghan will be larger

TO MAKE A SQUARE:
Row 1– With Color, Ch.3, join in a ring, Ch.2, 2 D.C. in ring, Ch.1, * 3 D.C. in ring, Ch.1, repeat from * 2 times, more. Slip St. to 2nd Ch. at beginning of row, break yarn, fasten.

Row 2– With 2nd Color, fasten yarn in one of the four corners, Ch.2, 2 D.C. in same space, Ch.l, 3 D.C. in same space, Ch 1, * 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in same space, Ch.1, repeat from * around row, Slip St. to 2nd Ch. at beginning of row, break yarn, fasten.

Row 3– With 3rd Color, fasten yarn in one of the corners, Ch.2, 2 D.C. in same space. Ch.l, 3 D.C. in same space, Ch.l, * 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in same space. Ch. 1, repeat from * around row, ending 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.l, Slip St. to 2nd Ch. at beginning of row, break yarn, fasten.

Row 4– With 4th Color, fasten yarn in one of the corners, Ch.2, 2 D.C. in same space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in same space, Ch.l. * 3 D.C. in next space. Ch.1, 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in same space, Ch.l, repeat from * around row, ending 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, 3 D.C. in next space, Ch.1, Slip St. to 2nd Ch. at beginning of row, break yarn, fasten.

Row 5–Join Black at corner and work in the same manner. This completes one square.

Make 284 squares and sew together on wrong side as illustrated: 11 squares in first row across, 10 squares in second row across. Repeat these 2 rows, 12 times more, then 1 row of 11 squares.

BORDER:
Row 1– With Black work 1 row S.C. all around Afghan, increasing at outside corners and decreasing at inside corners to keep work fiat.

Row 2– With Color, Ch.2, * 1 D.C. in 3rd St., 1 D.C. in 2nd St. (crossing Sts.), repeat from * around row.

Rows 3 and 4–With Black work 1 S.C. in each St. around row, fasten yarn.

Border for straight edge:
Sew or Crochet Squares together and work Border as follows:
Row 1– With Black work 1 row of S.C. (increase at corners).

Row 2– Ch. *1 D.C. in 3rd St., 1 D.C. in 2nd St. (crossing Sts.), repeat from * around row.
Work 3 more rows.

Row 6– With color, work 1 row of S.C.

Row 7– Change color, work 1 row S.C.

Row 8– Same color as Row 6, *1 S.C., Ch.3, 1 S.C. in same St., skip 1 St., repeat from * around row, fasten yarn.

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Pineapple and fans tablecloth

Just finished my new tablecloth. I added an extra row of pineapples, then joined them and also added the fans. I needed the added length so that it would hang over the table's edge.